Most of the traditional foods of Samhain have to do with its aspect as the last harvest of the year. This means that at this time, the animals are brought in from the fields and many of them are slaughtered to provide food for the winter. Beef, Pork, and poultry are traditional foods of Samhain. I do not eat beef or pork anymore, but I will eat free range poultry when I can find it.
When I prepare a chicken, I go out to the garden and cut some fresh sage, thyme, and lemon balm. I also cut up a couple small onions or garlic and half a lemon. After cleaning the herbs, I’ll pull off a couple of the larger sage leaves to stick under the chicken’s skin. I clean the chicken, cutting away as much fat as I can from under the skin. This makes the skin crunchier and gets rid of excess fat and cholesterol. Then I stuff the chicken with some salt and pepper, the onions or garlic, the cut up lemon, and the herbs. I tuck the large sage leaves under the chicken skin and sprinkle salt and pepper over the whole bird and maybe some lemon pepper seasonings if I have it. I’ll bake it at 400 F, twenty minutes a pound. What can I say? I’m Pennsylvania Dutch. We cook things till they’re dead. heh
I also make gravy from the guts. First boil the guts and neck for a good long time. I usually go for an hour or so, just to make the broth nice and flavorful. If you have fresh herbs, you can steep them in the broth at the same time. Drain the broth and let it cool. If you have any pets, you can clean up the guts and neck meat for them once they cool. If not, you can wait till they cool, clean away anything inedible, and then grind them up in a blender to add back to the gravy. Next (I learned this on Good Eats with Alton Brown!), melt about 3 tbsp of butter on low heat and add 6 tbsp of flour. Keep cooking this until it looks (to me) a bit like applesauce. Add any dry herbs at this time if you did not add fresh herbs previously. You can continue to cook it for as long as you like, and the longer it cooks, the thicker it will make the gravy, but stir it as much as possible so it doesn’t get crunchy. See, I used to just shake some flour up in cold water and add this to the gravy to thicken it, but Alton Brown’s method really thickens the gravy, And there are no lumps. Plus, you don’t get that floury taste you sometimes get if you add too much flour to thicken. So once I’m ready, I’ll add a little bit of the broth at a time until I’ve added about half of it to the pan. You’ll be amazed at how much of the broth it absorbs! Then I dump the flour mixture into the gravy pot, turn it up to boil, and stir until it’s smooth. I make my gravy like this all the time now. It’s a little bit extra mess, but well worth it.
But wait! We’re not done. Don’t throw ANYTHING away. I usually buy a larger bird than we need so that I can make soup. I hope you have a really large pot. I have a three gallon pot, but I’m asking for a five gallon for Yule. After you cut off the bits of chicken you’ll be eating at dinner, pull out the herbs and other ingredients you used to stuff the bird, and throw them in your pot. This will help the carcass cool faster. After dinner, dump any left over gravy in the pot as well, unless you want to save some for sandwiches. Next pick over the bird until you have separated all the edible bits of meat from it and torn what you intend to use for the soup into bite size pieces. Leave those on a plate. Take only the larger bones from the carcass and dump those in the pot. This will make it easier to separate them out later. Nothing’s worse than feeding someone soup and having them find a bone in it. Add enough water to cover everything and set on the stove to boil.
While that’s going on, cut up some carrots, celery, another onion, and potatoes. I prefer onions to garlic in the soup, but you may prefer garlic. If you’re using potatoes in good condition, you can leave the skins on for extra vitamins. The veggies usually take about an hour to prepare. After straining out the bones and herbs from the soup broth, I add the veggies to the pot, cover, and boil for about a half hour. The potatoes don’t have to be cooked through because I won’t be eating it that night, and they’ll continue to soften as the soup cooks. After adding the chicken and more water to bring the level up to about an inch under the rim of the pot, I check the taste of the soup and add salt and pepper if needed. I might also add some lemon juice to give it a bit of extra oomph. Not too much though. I can’t say how much because I judge from the taste, not from a measurement. Only when the soup is very nearly done do I add the noodles and corn. Now my Grammy used to make her own pot pie noodles for the soup, but I generally just go out and buy some nice Pennsylvania Dutch egg noodles which come in a variety of sizes. Two or three large handfuls is usually enough. I also add a bag of frozen corn. This recipe usually makes about nine to ten single serving containers of soup. The way my relatives go through it though, it usually doesn’t even last a week.
My mother makes a baked “stuffing” that people rave over. It’s not an overly complicated recipe, but does take time to prepare. It consists mainly of potatoes, celery, and onions. She cuts up enough potatoes to fill up that 3 gallon pot of mine and boils them till they are soft. Meanwhile, she melts a stick of butter in a very large pan on medium heat. She dices a large onion and about five large celery stalks. Once the butter is melted, she’ll add the veggies to the butter and saute until they are soft. Some people will buy cubed bread or buy a loaf and let it get stale, but my mom uses a fresh loaf of Italian bread and cubes it herself. Once the veggies are soft, she adds the bread to pan and cooks them until they’ve browned a bit. Meanwhile, she drains the potatoes if they are done and turns them into mashed potatoes. You can add milk, butter, or sour cream to the potatoes as you mash them to make them smoother, and each ingredient makes them taste a little different. Personally, I prefer the sour cream, but my mother’s boyfriend prefers butter. When the mashed potatoes are done, my mother mixes the bread mixture into the potatoes in an over safe bowl. Then she bakes it until it browns a bit on the top. Now, my mother does not add any herbs to this, but you can be more creative if you like. There are many herbs and foods traditional to this time of year including allspice, apple, garlic, mushrooms, nuts of all kinds, rosemary, rue, sage, and tarragon. Go wild!
I’ll usually make my famous baked macaroni and cheese. It’s not specifically traditional to this time of year, but it’s something my family loves. I use a pound of extra sharp cheddar cheese (I find the store brand stuff is consistently the sharpest), about half a stick of munster, and most of a small package of velveta. Cook up enough macaroni noodles to fill a large oven safe bowl. Strain and pour a layer of noodles into the bowl. Completely cover the noodles with a layer of cheddar, about five or so pieces of munster, and four or five pieces of velveta. Pour another layer of noodles and repeat. There’s usually not enough room in the bowl to make another layer unless you’re using a really deep bowl. My mother likes to bake this for about a half hour, but I prefer an hour. Depending upon how long you want to cook it, add milk accordingly. When I bake it, I put enough milk in it that it’s a little less than half way to the top. When I prepare it and my mother makes it (because I am at work or something), I put in about half that. The more milk you put in it, and the longer you cook it, the more the milk will curdle and permeate the noodles with cheesy goodness. No matter how long you cook it, about midway before it’s done, stir it once. Bake it at 375 to 400 F, and keep it in until it has a nice crunchy crust. My grandma adds breadcrumbs to the top, but we’ve all come to the conclusion that she’s crazy. Seriously, she’s the only bad cook in the family.
Next is something I’m not sure is available everywhere and that’s dried corn. If you’ve ever had canned creamed corn, that’s something like dried corn. The only major difference is, dried corn is not canned. Or, well, you can buy it in a tin, but it’s preserved through drying, so you basically have to reconstitute it. But that means, no nasty preservatives. So, first off, for every cup of dried corn use two cups water. Put this on a burner and bring to a boil, then cover for about an hour. Bring back up to a boil and add about a tablespoons of sugar (or I prefer honey), two tablespoons of butter, and salt and pepper. Add one cup of milk or evaporated milk, and cook for another five minutes. If at the end of the meal there is anything left, it can be added to the soup or you can use it to make corn bread casserole . It’s not actually a casserole. I think of it more like a dessert.
For the casserole, you’ll need about two cups of the cooked dried corn (or two cans of creamed corn), two eggs, sour cream, oil, sugar, and one box of corn muffin mix. Mix the corn, eggs, one cup of sour cream, a half cup of oil, and a third cup of sugar. Add the muffin mix and a dash of salt. Bake in a large greased pan for about an hour at 350 F. Yummy. I got this recipe from a lady I used to work with.
Once settlers came to America from Europe, gourds, particularly pumpkin, became another traditional food of the season. Now I am not overly fond of pumpkin pie, (I much prefer the seeds) so I did a little experimenting. I am not one for canned anything (except peas for some reason), so I make my pumpkin puree from scratch. It’s not too hard; it’s just a little time consuming. Preheat your oven to 200 F, and wash your pumpkin thoroughly. Next take your pumpkin and slice him right down the middle lengthwise. Then cut those pieces again. Scrape out all the guts with a spoon and put them in a bowl if you want to keep the seeds. Make sure there are no stringy guts still attached to the pumpkin’s flesh, then cut the quarters into pieces about the length and width of two fingers. Lay them, skin side down, on a foil lined cookie tray. Bake the pieces for about an hour, then turn the oven up to 300 F and cook for another hour. Test the flesh with a fork and if they are tender, take them out and let them cool. At this time, you can turn the oven off. Pick the pumpkin pieces up with the foil and set them aside. Put a new piece of foil on the tray and pour your cleaned pumpkin seeds onto it. There should be no pumpkin pulp left on them. Salt to your tastes and set in cooling oven.
Now the pumpkin puree can be used just like you would use any pumpkin puree from a can, but it’s got no additives. That’s what I love about making things from scratch. I’m the only one adding anything to it. Just scrape the pulp from the skin and puree in a blender. Like I said before, I’m not a big fan of pumpkin, but I’ve made pumpkin roll with the puree, and recently I made a cranberry-hazelnut pumpkin pie which I actually liked pretty well. I’ll probably adjust the cranberry-hazelnut to pumpkin custard ratio when I make it again, but it was pretty good.
First, the crust… two cups flour, a teaspoon of salt, about one-fourth teaspoon of allspice, and three-fourths cup of shortening. Some people use lard, but I can’t. It makes me sick. So vegetable shortening it is. Mix that all up with your hands until you get a oatmeal like mixture, then add about a tablespoon of Cold water at a time and mix well with a fork until the dough can be formed into a ball. Put this in the fridge for fifteen minutes or more to firm up. I have this really cool pie crust “bag” that I can throw the dough in to roll so that it makes less mess and gives me an even thickness. It’s bit of a pain to clean, but I can’t believe how much easier it is to make pie crust with it.
Next you’ll need a cup of cranberries (I prefer to use fresh), a half cup hazelnuts, a fourth cup brown sugar, and a teaspoon vanilla. Clean your cranberries and throw away anything squishy or with soft spots. Cranberries should be hard. Dump your cranberries and hazelnuts into a blender or foodprocessor and grind them up to a coarse meal. Add the brown sugar and vanilla, then spread this mixture over the bottom of the pie crust. Next time I make this recipe, I’ll probably double this part.
If you have a favorite pumpkin custard recipe, you can prepare it and pour it into the pie crust at this time and bake the pie at 425 F for fifteen minutes, then reduce to 350 F and bake for another forty to fifty minutes. The spices I use in mine are a heaping teaspoon of cinnamon, a teaspoon of ginger, and a fourth teaspoon of cloves. For those who have never made a pumpkin pie before, take a large bowl and beat three eggs lightly. Stir in one and three-fourth cups of pumpkin puree, a half cup sugar, a half teaspoon of salt, and your spices. Mix well, then slowly add a cup of evaporated milk.
Chances are, you’ll have left over dough and if you adjust the cranberry-hazelnut mixture like I plan to next time, you’ll have a bit of pumpkin custard left too. You can make a couple small-personal pumpkin pies without the cranberry mixture for those who are fussy, or you can bake the excess pumpkin custard in a separate bowl without crust and turn the excess crust into “batons.” Batons are basically left over crust which is spiced and baked for about fifteen minutes. You can roll it in sugar and the same spices you used to make the pumpkin custard. Add them to the tray with the pie and take them out before you turn it up.
Another pie I like to make is a cranberry-pear pie. For Halloween, I sometimes call this my bloody-pear pie. You can use the same crust as above. Take an entire bag of cranberries (cleaning and discarding the bad ones), about one cup of sugar and a half cup of water and boil until all the cranberries pop. Put this in the fridge to cool. I prefer Bosc pears, but you can use any kind of pear (or apple) that you like. I like to stew the pears in brown sugar before dumping them into the pie, so I skin and core them, then slice them up and add them to a pan with a teaspoon of butter and about a fourth cup of brown sugar, cooking them until they are soft. Pour the cranberries into the pie crust once they are cool, and pour the pears on top. Combine one cup sugar, three tablespoons of sugar, a fourth teaspoon of nutmeg, a fourth cup of crushed almonds or hazelnuts, and six tablespoons of butter. Mix thoroughly until the whole mixture turns into crumbles, then sprinkle over the pie. Since the pie is basically cooked already, all you really need to do is cook the crumbles. This takes about fifteen to twenty minutes at 375 F. Remove from the oven when the crumbles are slightly browned.
So! Happy holidays and happy eating!